A tintype is a handmade photograph created using a 19th-century process called wetplate collodion. Tintypes are made by hand-coating a metal plate with light-sensitive chemicals, exposing it in a large format camera while it's still wet, and developing it immediately in a darkroom or portable darkbox. The final image appears directly on the plate, a direct positive image, with no film negative or digital file involved. Each image is one of a kind, made from a combination of chemistry, careful timing, and light.

A little history…

The wetplate collodion process used to make tintypes was invented in 1851 by Frederick Scott Archer near London, England. Tintypes quickly became popular throughout the United States as a faster and cheaper way to have a portrait made than earlier photographic processes like daguerreotypes. Photographers could set up portable darkrooms in tents or wagons and make portraits for families on the spot.

Tintypes were durable and affordable, and offered the magic-like experience of seeing one’s likeness sealed in an image for the first time. They remained popular into the early 20th century when faster and more convenient forms of photography emerged. Today, tintype photography is experiencing a revival among photographers who value its beauty, unpredictability, and hands-on nature.

A single tintype portrait takes about 20 minutes, including setup, posing, exposure, and development.

We'll start by posing you for the portrait. Indoor studio sessions are typically framed from waist up due to limitations with the lighting setup. Outdoor sessions allow more freedom with posing and can be full body or closer up.

Next, the plate is prepared in the darkroom by coating a piece of aluminum with collodion and soaking it in a bath of silver nitrate, making it sensitive to light.

Time to hold still for the exposure! Indoor tintypes use a strong flash of light for a nearly instant exposure; outdoor tintypes require holding still for 1-10 seconds or so, depending on the sunlight. Blinking is okay but other movement will result in a blurred effect on the image.

After exposure, I develop the plate in the dark room before bringing it out for it’s final chemical bath. This is the exciting moment when your final image emerges!

Finally, the tintype is taken back to the studio for washing and varnishing. Once this process is complete, your portrait will be mailed to you to enjoy for years to come.

INDOOR SESSIONS

Indoor sessions are best for young children and pets that can remain relatively calm and still for the shoot. Strong bursts of strobe lights are used for nearly instant exposures, making it much easier to get sharp pictures of wiggly subjects when compared to the seconds-long exposures needed outside, but please know there is still a possibility of softness or blur in the final image if too much movement out of the focal plane occurs during the exposure.

For pets: I highly recommend bringing toys and/or treats, or even an extra person they trust, to help keep their attention focused.

OUTDOOR SESSIONS

When shot outdoors using only natural light, tintypes require holding still for exposure times between 1-10 seconds. If you would like children or pets in your photo, please know that they will most likely be soft or blurry. The motion blur or imperfections that come with a wiggly subject often add to the charm and authenticity of a tintype.

Here are some tips to help you look your best in your portrait:

Colors of clothing

• Avoid wearing a white or light colored top, which can appear very bright or blown out. Light colored base layers under a sweater, vest, or jacket are okay.

• Reds, oranges, and yellows usually look much darker or even black.

• Medium contrast colors look best, avoiding overly light or dark combinations (unless that’s the look you are going for).

Textures and Layers

Natural fabrics and textured items like linen, wool, denim, lace, and knits all photograph beautifully. Scarves, jackets, vests, hats, and other accessories canbring depth to the image.

Glasses

Eyeglasses will most often reflect and look like sunglasses in the final image. I recommend wearing them only if you are going for this effect.

Clothing with logos or lettering

Tintypes are direct positive images, which means words and logos will appear reversed. It’s up to you if you would like to wear something with lettering - just be aware of the final effect.

Please feel free to bring along accessories or props that feel meaningful to include in your tintype session.

Your tintype will be varnished, which helps protect the image from moisture and physical abrasion. While this layer offers durability, tintypes are still delicate and should be handled and stored with care.

Handling

Always handle a tintype by the edges. Avoid touching the image surface with your bare hands, as oils from your skin can degrade the varnish and leave fingerprints.

Cleaning 

Tintypes are ideally framed behind glass or stored in the provided acid-free sleeve to prevent dust from accumulating on the surface. Clean only if absolutely necessary. To remove dust, use canned air or a soft, clean brush or microfiber cloth to gently sweep particles away. Do not rub the surface or use any cleaning solutions, as these can damage the varnish and the image. 

Framing

Framing your tintype behind glass is a great way to keep it dust-free and safe over time. I recommend using a mat or spacers to keep the glass from directly touching the tintype’s surface.

If you live in the Milwaukee area, Noble Arts is a locally-owned framing shop that does great work creating beautiful displays for tintypes. Check them out: https://nobleartsgallery.com/.