Frequently Asked Questions
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A tintype is an archival handmade photograph created with a 19th-century process called wetplate collodion. Tintypes are made by coating a metal plate with light-sensitive chemicals, exposing it in a camera while it's still wet, and developing it immediately in a darkroom or portable darkbox. The final picture appears directly on the plate, with no film negative or digital file involved. Each tintype is a one of a kind, handcrafted image, a completely unique object that will last for well over 100 years.
The wetplate collodion process was invented in 1851 by Frederick Scott Archer in London. Tintypes quickly became popular throughout the United States as a faster and more economical way to have a portrait made than earlier photographic processes like daguerreotypes. This process remained widely popular for about 30 years.
Today, in a world where digital images are woven into nearly every part of our lives, this historic process is experiencing a revival, thanks to photographers and people who value its beauty, imperfections, and hands-on nature.
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A single tintype takes about 15-20 minutes to make, including plate sensitization, image exposure, and development.
We'll start with getting you comfortable in a pose for your photo. Indoor studio sessions are typically framed from waist up in classic portrait style. Outdoor sessions allow more freedom with posing and can be full body or closer up.
Next, I step into the darkroom (or portable darkbox) and prepare the metal plate by coating it with collodion and submerging it in a bath of silver nitrate solution.
Time to hold still for the exposure! Indoor tintypes use a strong flash of light for a nearly instant exposure; outdoor tintypes require holding still for 1-10 seconds or so, depending on the sunlight. Blinking is okay but other movement will result in a blurred effect on the image.
After exposure, I develop the plate in the darkroom before bringing it out for it’s final chemical bath which you will get to watch - this is the exciting moment when your final image emerges!
Finally, the tintype is taken back to the studio for washing and varnishing. The varnish layer is what allows tintypes to last for so long - protecting the sensitive collodion/silver layer in which the image is embedded.
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INDOOR SESSIONS
Indoor sessions are best for young children and pets that can remain relatively calm and still for the shoot. Strong bursts of strobe lights are used for nearly instant exposures, making it much easier to get sharp pictures of wiggly subjects when compared to the seconds-long exposures needed outside, but please know there is still a possibility of softness or blur in the final image if too much movement out of the focal plane occurs during the exposure.
For pets: I highly recommend bringing toys and/or treats, or even an extra person they trust, to help keep their attention focused.
OUTDOOR SESSIONS
When shot outdoors using only natural light, tintypes require holding still for exposure times between 1-10 seconds (usually 1-4 seconds on a summer day) If you would like children or pets in your photo, please know that they may be soft or blurry.
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Here are some tips to help you look your best in your portrait:
Colors of clothing
Medium contrast colors look best, avoiding overly light or dark combinations (unless that’s the look you are going for).
Textures and Layers
Natural and textured fabrics like linen, wool, denim, lace, and knits all photograph beautifully. Scarves, jackets, vests, hats, and other accessories bring depth to the image.
Clothing with logos or lettering
Words and logos will appear reversed in your tintype. It’s up to you if you would like to wear something with lettering - just be aware of the final effect.
Eyeglasses
Regular eyeglasses will sometimes appear dark, like sunglasses, in tintypes.
Please feel free to bring along accessories or props that feel meaningful to include in your tintype.
Image courtesy of Emily Dalske ‘25